It takes a heck of a doughnut to pull attention from marina views in tucked-away Roche Harbor, but the cinnamon sugar or maple iced confections at this waterfront café do the trick. The rest of the counter-service fare is forgettable, but it’s worth a visit for views of the resident harbor seals just outside. 

When chef Gabriella Russo came to the islands in the early days of Covid, she found her own Walden Pond, the famed Massachusetts retreat of Henry David Thoreau. The restaurant she built in downtown Friday Harbor is mostly a chef’s counter, her deft work on display for an entire five-course meal. It’s serious cuisine for a carefree island, but the extensive local sourcing keeps the experience anchored to the San Juans.

Three generations of proprietors have farmed the tidal flats of Buck Bay, where they harvest clams and Pacific oysters before purging the shellfish of sand for three days. Guests can immediately consume the slippery suckers or fresh crab at outdoor picnic tables, but know that the “U-Pluck Chickens” sign is just a joke.

Acclaim and attention came fast when Matia Kitchen shifted from pop-up to permanent status in 2021, and the restaurant is already in its second iteration in a downtown Eastsound spot. But for every diner who mispronounces the name (it’s “may-shah”), there’s one bowled over by the miso-maple vinaigrette on chicory greens or a squash confit in a delicate mole sauce. Chef Avery Adams turns local produce into something so sophisticated, somehow all the best-of lists undersell the experience.

A small sign begs diners to bring patience to their meal at the roadside café, given that it’s often entirely run by owner and chef Dante Miller. But since it shares the building with gallery Orcas Island Artworks, it’s the easiest wait on the island; sometimes the artisans themselves work the counter among the handmade jewelry and pottery. Miller’s simple, piping-hot baked egg dish warms up a blustery island day, and the salted caramel tart is worth a slice to go.

In an archipelago absolutely bursting with memorable cuisine, the single best meal might be tucked in the back of an alleyway on sleepy Lopez Island. Since 2017, chef Josh Ratza has been making his own ramen and udon, creating rich, balanced bowls of warmth and umami. His pottery background might be why the ceramics are all so stunning, though the perfectly jammy eggs would make any dish look good. Make a reservation; the small collection of outdoor counter seats and high-tops fills even on the stormiest of days.

Oyster shooters, fish and chips, and deviled eggs piled high with Dungeness crab—this is the kind of crowd-pleasing menu that never forgets that Friday Harbor is truly a seaside vacation joint. There’s elbow room and fire tables on the waterfront patio, but even from inside the restaurant delivers on the threefold promise on its streetside sign: food, views, drinks.

Hidden like a fairy-tale witch’s cottage, this fine-dining restaurant dishes up ramps, fiddleheads, wild fennel, and other foraged goodies from the forest just outside. Local farms provide the domesticated produce and meats for dishes like confit duck legs and steak Diane, and the sourdough bread and anchovy spread are made in-house. 

Envy the locals who get daily groceries at the San Juan Island Food Co-Op next door, but placate yourself with the pepperoni, mushroom, or artichoke sourdough pizzas sold at the bakery. A slice won’t last through the ferry-line wait; consider grabbing a frozen whole pie to take home, as well.

You’d be forgiven for thinking that this rustic joint reminds you of a blend of the fine-dining spot Ælder and pizza hangout Hogstone, the two eateries that previously shared the space. Chef Jay Blackinton more or less blended his two concepts and gave them a new name, keeping the pizza oven firing and adding small seasonal plates. The pies remain the centerpiece, perfectly blackened crust topped with roasted, marinated poblano chiles and hot honey.

A small sign begs diners to bring patience to their meal at the roadside café, given that it’s often entirely run by owner and chef Dante Miller. But since it shares the building with gallery Orcas Island Artworks, it’s the easiest wait on the island; sometimes the artisans themselves work the counter among the handmade jewelry and pottery. Miller’s simple, piping-hot baked egg dish warms up a blustery island day, and the salted caramel tart is worth a slice to go.

Though there’s some Southern inspiration in the pulled pork and collard greens, Orcas’s barbecue joint has roots as local as any farm-to-table operation; Matthew Carpenter grew up on this Deer Harbor Inn property before taking over the restaurant and making it meat-forward. Outdoor seating adds to the picnic vibe, and the brisket could stand up to most Deep South competitors.

Don’t hit this one on the way to the ferry. Not only do lines go out the door on weekend mornings, the friendly staff are apt to chat up every local or willing visitor who approaches the counter. It gives everyone a chance to take in the truly gigantic nature of the pastries—in both individual size and breadth of selection. Better to give this bake shop the time it deserves.

In a space that rather resembles a hippie’s little house in the woods, two locals started a bakery and café that feels rooted in Orcas quirk. Breakfast buttermilk biscuits topped with eggs and a maple Sriracha sauce are hard to beat, and creative sandwiches are served into the afternoon.

In case the name wasn’t clue enough, the nautical ropes hanging from the ceiling give plenty of clues to the ship-shape nature of Eastsound’s tiny bar. It’s a lively hangout for a sleepy island, even with food offerings that don’t go much beyond cheese and charcuterie plates. House concoctions may be more interesting than successful (there’s probably a reason sarsaparilla Manhattans haven’t gone viral yet), but bartenders keep their mixology well clear of snobbery.

This classic, casual-but-upmarket form of dining feels familiar to Seattle eaters, and for good reason; it was launched by a chef who worked at Sitka and Spruce, Ciudad, and Bastille. Ingredients are restricted to those from the region, which means, for instance, that the bar has no citrus mixers. It makes for creative concoctions but a concise menu, in a pleasantly mellow dining room.

A taco truck on an island of a couple thousand people doesn’t have to go this hard; after all, there are only a handful of other places to eat without swimming to the mainland. But the pastor tacos absolutely pop with saucy flavor, a kick that belies the perma-calm rural setting. The menu is, of course, sized to fit a truck kitchen, but it’s worth seeking out for a snack or full meal. 

With the Whale Museum in Friday Harbor (pop in to see the skeleton of an orca, meticulously reassembled) and the science-minded Center for Whale Research based a few blocks away, San Juan Island is ground zero for whale watching. Shore-based viewing is often available in Lime Kiln State Park, and boats leave from either side of the island. Orcas and Lopez have fewer operators, but there are still seasonal departures.

In recent years, the focus has turned from the salmon-eating southern resident killer whales, which are protected by sizable restrictions on how close boats can get, to the rest of the marine mammals that live in the Salish Sea, from Bigg’s orcas to humpbacks and seals. 

In water too cold for much swimming, paddling is the best introduction to the Salish Sea, a way to find views of rugged coastlines and sealife not spotted from a ferry. All three islands have outfitters and equipment; San Juan Island’s Discovery Sea Kayaks developed the region’s first nighttime bioluminescence tour, while San Juan Kayak Expeditions does multiday tours with camping overnights. Crescent Beach Kayak Rentals on Orcas offers boats year-round, including one with a see-through bottom to view underwater life while staying dry, and Lopez Kayaks is willing to help find a way to get a rental boat on your car so you can put in anywhere on the island.

Two historic sites, English Camp and American Camp, on opposite sides of San Juan Island commemorate the two countries that once had soldiers here; today they make up a national historic park. Lime Kiln Point State Park boasts a scenic lighthouse and San Juan County Park has camping spots near the water. On Orcas Island, Mount Constitution sits in Moran State Park; the hike to its stone observation tower is a few steep miles on foot, while the winding drive is a scenic five and a half. Finally, Lopez’s parks are beachy and quiet; Spencer Spit State Park includes a sandy finger that forms a lagoon.

The tiny farms of the San Juans crank out more produce than the residents can consume, so unstaffed farmstands dot the rural roads, most operating out of barns. These days many take digital payments in the form of Venmo or Paypal, or even via Square from an iPad in the corner. Established farms like San Juan’s Krystal Acres (alpaca wool and clothing), Orcas’ veggie-heavy Warm Valley Farm, or Horse Drawn Farm on Lopez (produce and a meat freezer) are marked on Google; others just advertise with a wooden sign out front. Stock up on fresh goat cheese or leafy kale, and don’t even think of sneaking away without paying. 

From its location at the base of Turtleback Mountain, Orcas Island Winery’s tasting barn feels a little distant from the marine vibe of Eastsound. Picnic tables and firepits make it a pleasant hang long after you select a bottle; the small selection won’t rival Walla Walla, but the pet nat or oak-aged red are perfectly suited to an island afternoon. Meanwhile, San Juan Island Distillery crafts Spy Hop gins and Westcott Bay Cider in a small facility near Roche Harbor.

While bike rentals are available on all three tourist centers—Friday Harbor, Eastsound, Lopez Village—not all island roads are created equal. Orcas and San Juan tend to be hillier than Lopez, and all three have tourist drivers who may not know to look out for cyclists. Still, most people quickly learn that cyclists are legion, and every island has scenic routes; try American Camp on San Juan, demanding Mount Constitution on Orcas, and Fisherman Bay Road on Lopez.

No chain stores, no big box retailers, no problem. Retail leans hard into the gifty and handmade across the islands, and it’s easy to come home with a trunk full of cashmere throws and artisanal soaps. In Friday Harbor the San Juan Sea Salt store stocks dozens of signature salty seasonings, plus caramel samples and indulgent baked goods. Clothing boutique Deer Hazel epitomizes slouchy San Juan style, and the San Juan Island Farmers Market gathers jewelry makers, knitters, and produce growers in a barn downtown year round.

In Eastsound on Orcas, the smell of Orcas Island Leather Company tells you they make their own belts and bags, plus fun DIY kits to assemble coin purses or luggage tags. Darvill’s Bookstore delivers classic indie vibes, plus a coffee shop with water views. Printshop Northwest screen-prints whale, ferry, and bigfoot designs on soft tees and pullovers. 

There isn’t much to buy on Lopez, but Ship Supply gathers clothing, gifts, and home goods that wouldn’t be out of place in a Nancy Meyers movie. Skarpari makes and sharpens knives, and their tiny shop also its jewelry and local coffee. 

Despite the name, there’s nothing very house-like about this modern building full of right angles and bluff-top rooms. With one of the most convenient locations in the islands—walk off the ferry and you’re basically there—the hotel makes it easy to maximize a short getaway.

There isn’t much difference between the waterfront and the water-view cabins at Snug Harbor Resort, on the western, quieter side of the island; both are right on the marina. The 20-cabin resort provides free crab pots during the crabbing season, and the common firepits and boiling pots are ideal for cooking the day’s catch and eating outside. 

It’s like someone took all the elements of a summer scout camp and gave them a glow-up. Canvas wall tents and yurts line the edges of the wooded acreage, with cabins and a timber-sided lodge in the middle. Boating, horseshoe games, and even T-shirt tie-dye in a craft tent complete the picture, and majestic swans call the property’s three lakes home for part of the year.

The hippie ethos of remote Doe Bay Resort—naked hot tubs, yoga studio, vegetable garden—runs to the on-site café, full of veggie-forward (but not all meatless) dishes. The cabins, campsites, yurts, and domes are all rustic but charming, and some are off-grid deals for those who like to rough it.

In a building that dates back to 1904, the wrought iron beds and Victorian furnishings basically demand that the lofty eaves be haunted by a resident ghost. (Her name is Octavia.) Though the ferry-front hotel doesn’t have walkable access to many amenities, the downstairs café has a meal or two worth of options and the waterfront balconies make anyone feel like a sea captain eyeing the storm front.

Crisp white exterior walls set this hotel apart from the otherwise crowded downtown Eastsound; view it from the water, and it might as well be Nantucket. Modern waterfront suites face the bay, but the hotel’s main building has simple, well-appointed rooms that serve their purpose even as the shops and restaurants of Eastsound beckon. Be sure to hit on-site New Leaf Café for brunch.

The island’s only central hotel leans hard into the B&B vibe; expect a roaring fire and a few vintage bathtubs. The hotel will coordinate bike, kayak, or crab pot rentals, though visitors should be prepared for the slow pace of Lopez life—there are no TVs as distraction when the nearby businesses are closed.